A trip to the public sauna at Draughton Heights

A former horse box gets a new lease of life as a wood-fired sauna ...

A breath in. A breath out. I thrust myself forward and I’m submerged in the chilled waters of the lake. It’s a shock to the system, but I manage to keep my breathing controlled. In … out … in … out … and, slowly, my body begins to soften. There’s always something invigorating about cold water plunges after steamy spells in the sauna.

Treading water, I turn to look at the bank I’ve just clambered down. Skipton’s latest health and wellness addition is sitting in pride of place: a glossy green trailer conversion backed by a refreshment tent.

Löyly & Jää Sauna joined forces with Draughton Heights campsite in early 2025, using its natural swimming lakes as a base to offer contrast therapy. It has a range of packages available – the September full moon experience particularly caught my eye – but today, it’s a simple experience on the cards.

A 50-minute community sauna slot that costs just £15, including piping hot cups of peach tea after the session. Less than a 15-minute drive from Ilkley, it was a no-brainer: a tiny slice of Scandinavia on our very own moorland doorstep.

The mastermind behind operations is Zoe Hall, who founded its parent company, the Dip & Dales, after falling in love with Finnish contrast therapy in 2014. When my mum and I pulled up in our battered Aygo, Zoe was already stoking the fire to warm the sauna.

Directing us towards the refreshment tent, she ran us through the ritual. A bucket of scented water to throw over the coals for added steam. A timer on the sauna wall. And a clear path down to the lake’s surface for those planning on (or attempting) cold plunges. In theory, it splits into two rotations of 20-minute saunas and five-minute swims. In reality, it’s a fluid experience — everyone adjusts timings to suit their own comfort levels.

Inside, the horsebox’s former functionality is unrecognisable; two rows of pine benches seat eight sauna-goers, with a steaming wood-fired heater at the far end. Sinking into the warmth of the pine benches, I strike up conversation with a South African expat (whose little girl is watching her enviously from the lakeside) and relish the ability to tap into serenity — gazing through a well-placed window with water views.

One thing’s for certain – it’s a beautiful place to indulge in health rituals. The scenery is basked in nature and a joyful atmosphere, with children and dogs playing against the backdrop of valley views. If you didn’t know it was here, you’d never think to venture this far. The Löyly & Jää Sauna sits in a peaceful bubble.

Unsurprisingly, the influence of sauna culture in the UK is on the rise. In December 2024, the BBC acknowledged its growing popularity with the savvily clipped headline: “Sauna has all the benefits of the pub.”

The article spoke of cardiovascular benefits and improved mental wellness, but ultimately cited a sober movement that’s driving people to chase non-alcoholic dopamine hits. Contrast therapy certainly imitates that “feel good” feeling (beer bellies and hangovers not included). Further articles, like that in Forbes, list even further benefits: improved sleep, reduced inflammation, reduced respiratory and cardiovascular disease and simple relaxation. It’s a long list of rewards.

Of course, Olicanians are no strangers to the benefits of cold water therapy. We’re talking, after all, about the spa town that drew in the likes of the 19th century naturalist Charles Darwin for its White Wells dip. There’s the River Wharfe, too, where long summer evenings are spent paddling on the Pebbled Beach, and Ilkley Lido, with its seasonal openings and newly-launched yoga sessions.

Ilkley’s connections with water are deep-rooted – even its moorland is dissected by trickling streams. However, we’ve always had one half of the bargain: a place to get cold, but not necessarily warm up. It’s about time that we had a year-round solution and moreover, somewhere to access the “heat” element of contrast therapy. The sauna scratches that itch.

I brave two dips in the freezing lake and spend the remaining time in the heat. My 50 minutes might be up, but mentally, I’m already checking my calendar to see when I can plot a return trip. Draughton Heights campsite is tantalisingly accessible, a quick drive along the A65 and a left turn past the old riding school. You don’t even get as far as Skipton. Löyly & Jää Sauna strikes me as “meant to be”. It molds perfectly into our valley’s historical and social fabric.

I later caught a moment with Zoe, and she described how that sense of community was her goal. “I first fell in love with real sauna culture while travelling in Finland as a younger woman – the heat, the calm, the connection to nature and people. It stuck with me, and I’ve used saunas ever since,” she explained.

“At first, I hired mobile saunas, but I soon realised that to build a real community. I needed a permanent space where people could return, connect, and make it part of their routine. That’s how Löyly & Jää Sauna came to life.”

The competition is limited. Aside from the members-only sauna at the Ilkley Lawn Tennis & Squash Club, there’s nothing comparable in Ilkley and its surrounds. To bask in nature? And test your own limits? It is worth diving – or tiptoeing – into the deep end.